Istria’s white truffle harder to find than ever

White truffles

It’s the time of year when gourmets and truffle hunters turn their attention to the prized white truffle, the world’s most expensive mushroom. But this season in Istria, truffle hunters say the search is tougher than ever.

Experienced truffle hunters Beti and Bela say that finding quality truffles has become increasingly difficult. The forests may hold some, but most are small and of lower grade.

“There are a lot of third-class truffles this year, and you need real luck to find one of the first or second class,” truffle hunter Dragan Šćulac explained to HRT. “It takes persistence and hard work to find enough good ones.”

Prices Reaching Record Highs

With fewer truffles available and demand as strong as ever, prices have risen sharply.

“The price for first-class white truffles is over €2,000 per kilogram. Second-class truffles fetch around €1,000, while third-class go for about €400,” Šćulac added.

The Motovun Forest, Istria’s most famous truffle habitat, is home to this fragrant and delicately flavoured fungus. Its rich aroma and taste make it one of the most sought-after culinary treasures in the world.

Concerns Over Unskilled and Illegal Truffle Hunters

However, the hunt for “white gold” is increasingly under threat. Locals warn that untrained and often illegal truffle diggers are damaging the delicate forest ecosystem. In recent years, the number of foreign pickers has also grown.

“We believe traditional Istrian truffle hunting should remain in the hands of local people,” said Robert Marušić, organiser of truffle fairs and a well-known promoter of Istrian gastronomy. “We don’t want it to turn into something like yacht charters, where people come from all over the world without understanding the tradition.”

Calls for Regulation and Protection

According to Buzet Forestry, 140 permits for personal truffle gathering were issued this year, including 13 to foreigners, and one commercial licence.

But experienced truffle hunters insist that many newcomers lack the knowledge required to harvest responsibly.

“It’s essential to create a register of truffle hunters,” said Darko Mužica, president of the Truffle Hunters Association Istra. “Anyone wishing to hunt truffles should attend training and pass an exam. We need clear rules to know who is hunting and under what conditions.”

Until stricter regulations are in place, Istrian truffle hunters are turning to another form of protection, seeking geographical indication status to safeguard their precious white truffle and preserve the integrity of this unique Istrian tradition.