A chat with Sanja Vladović, the co-founder of leading Croatian craft chocolate brand TAMAN

Sanja Vladović (Photo: Private album)

By Hana Klain

Croatian chocolate and wine taster Sanja Vladović has built an unexpected career shaped by curiosity, craftsmanship, and sensory exploration.

Together with her partner, she is also the co-founder of the award-winning craft chocolate brand TAMAN, a bean-to-bar project that has helped position Croatia within the growing international fine chocolate movement. We caught up with Sanja to learn more.

You come from the world of business and marketing. How did you decide to train as a chocolate taster?

I spent years working in marketing, and I still do, but before that, my background was in theatre, film, and design. I’ve always been drawn to craftsmanship and uncovering deeper substance in the world around me. I’ve also always loved chocolate!

When Stiv started working with chocolate and we began our business together, I wanted to be more engaged with what he was doing. However, I wasn’t ready to leave my 9-to-5 job, which I still enjoy because in marketing I can achieve a meaningful synthesis of creativity and analytics that fulfils me.

So, to be able to follow him more competently, I enrolled in professional chocolate tasting programs, initially out of curiosity, then driven by genuine fascination.

Gradually, almost like following a scent trail you didn’t realise you were tracking, I continued exploring sensory experiences more deeply. I discovered that tasting wasn’t just a skill; it was a language.

To speak it fluently, I knew I needed education beyond chocolate, so I explored sensory tasting of different foods and drinks, with wine tasting naturally becoming a part of that. Chocolate and wine tasting became the perfect blend of my analytical mind, my sensory curiosity and my passion for storytelling.

(Photo: Private album)

Was your love for chocolate present since childhood, or did it develop later?

As a child, I loved chocolate the way most children do: instinctively and without analysis. The deeper love came later, when I discovered that chocolate could be as complex as wine, as expressive as coffee, and as surprising as a great dish in a fine restaurant.

What does the education of a professional chocolate taster look like, and what skills must be developed?

The education of a professional chocolate taster involves a combination of scientific knowledge, sensory training, and personal development.

It begins with honing your sensory tasting skills, calibrating your senses, expanding your aroma vocabulary, and learning to distinguish personal preference from objective evaluation.

However, true understanding also requires knowledge of cacao genetics, fermentation processes, roasting chemistry, common defects, and how these factors influence flavour development.

Much like in sports, where consistent practice is essential to improve, mastering tasting skills demands regular training and dedication. But true expertise goes beyond just honing your senses; it involves learning to articulate your experiences in a way that engages and educates others.

Certification programs provide a solid foundation of knowledge, but genuine growth comes from personal exploration and a continuous commitment to learning at every opportunity.

Overall, it’s a blend of science, sensory training, humility, and ongoing curiosity.

(Photo: Private album)

What qualities and sensory abilities must a good chocolate taster have?

Curiosity above all. A good taster must be patient, consistent, and willing to taste beyond “I like it / I don’t like it.” You need a good memory for aromas, the ability to focus, and the discipline to taste even when the sample is challenging. And you must be comfortable with silence because tasting is, in many ways, a form of meditation.

What does the chocolate‑tasting process look like – from the first bite to the final evaluation?

It begins before the bite. You observe with all your senses: the colour, the shine, the snap, the aromas. Then you let the chocolate melt slowly, without chewing, so the cocoa butter can release aromas at its own pace.

I evaluate structure, acidity, bitterness, sweetness, and the evolution of flavours balance. The finish, how long the flavours stay with you, often tells the most about the quality of the cacao and the craftsmanship behind it.

What was the most unusual or challenging sample you’ve ever tasted?

The moment I tasted my first true single‑origin bar, everything changed. It felt like discovering a new continent. Chocolate can surprise you in ways you don’t expect and that’s part of the thrill.

By which criteria are chocolates evaluated, and are there clearly defined quality categories?

The evaluation process starts with the quality of the ingredients used. In the fine chocolate industry, artificial ingredients are not allowed, nor are substitutes for cacao butter such as palm oil, hydrogenated fats, or vegetable fats. Today, traceability and the quality of all ingredients are becoming increasingly important.

Chocolates that pass these initial ingredients screening then undergo tasting evaluations that consider:

Aroma complexity
Flavour clarity and balance
Texture and melt
Absence of defects (smoke, mould, over-roasting, poor fermentation)
Finish and overall balance

There are also categories such as plain/origin bars, milk and white chocolates, flavoured bars, filled chocolates, and drinking chocolates, each with its own standards.

What should consumers pay attention to when buying chocolate, considering that many products on the market are not actually real chocolate?

Read the ingredient list. Real chocolate has very few ingredients: cacao mass, cocoa butter, sugar. If the first ingredient in your dark chocolate is sugar or if you see vegetable fats instead of cacao butter, you’re not buying true chocolate.

Unfortunately, today there is an additional risk, as many large-scale chocolate producers are using alternative ingredients and marketing products as “chocolate taste” rather than authentic chocolate.

As a result, consumers need to be extra vigilant.

Also, look for transparency: origin, percentage, and the name of the producer. Craft makers are proud to tell you where their cacao comes from and how it was grown and processed.

How do you evaluate the chocolate offering in Croatia today?

It has improved. Ten years ago, fine chocolate was almost invisible. Today, Croatia has a growing craft scene and curious consumers. However, there are still only two bean-to-bar producers in the country, and no shops that carry relevant bean-to-bar brands from around the world.

You visit international chocolate fairs – what is the atmosphere like, and what can one learn or discover there?

It’s a mix of science fair, farmers’ market, and global family reunion. You meet farmers from remote origins, taste experimental batches, attend lectures on fermentation, and discover trends before they reach the mainstream.

For me, the most valuable part is connecting with people who dedicate their lives to cacao, from soil to bar.

Together with your partner Stiv Kahlina, you launched the craft brand TAMAN. What did the beginning look like?

Stiv, after a successful career in music and then design, turned to his other passion: food. He spent years working in restaurants. I’ve always been a chocolate lover, but Stiv wasn’t initially that into it.

It wasn’t until we attended the Salon du Chocolat in Paris, back in 2009, that he developed a true fascination with chocolate. Witnessing the textures and flavours achievable with cacao completely captivated him, leading to several years of dedicated study to master chocolate making and develop his skills as a chocolatier.

In 2015, we launched the artisanal chocolate company Malo&Slatko. At the start, our focus was on innovative gourmet chocolates, as well as pralines and truffles with unusual yet perfectly balanced flavour combinations.

Sanja and Stiv (Photo: Private album)

Over the years, these creations have earned us many international awards.

Besides producing high-quality chocolates, we also began offering educational workshops and programs to raise awareness about chocolate quality in our local market. And in 2020, we took a significant step forward by launching our own micro-production of chocolate from cacao beans, what’s known as bean-to-bar chocolate.

We didn’t plan to “start a brand” – we simply followed the craft. The brand grew naturally from that passion.

What are the key segments in the chocolate‑making process?

When we talk about bean-to-bar chocolate, the chocolate maker needs to have full control over several key processes.

This includes sourcing the cacao, which involves understanding and knowing the procedures on the farm: from growing, harvesting, to fermenting and drying the cacao beans.

Once the cacao arrives at our production facility, the process continues with roasting, refining, conching, tempering, and moulding. Each step plays a crucial role in shaping the final flavour of the chocolate.

For us, the most important part is listening to the cacao. Every origin has its unique characteristics, so each requires a different approach- there’s no one-size-fits-all recipe.

(Photo: Private album)

Where do you source your raw materials, and how important is the origin of cacao? Have you had the chance to visit plantations?

We work with carefully selected origins that are known for quality fermentation and ethical practices. The origin is absolutely crucial since it defines the flavor spectrum and character of the chocolate. Yes, we’ve visited plantations and fermentation centers.

Meeting the farmers changes everything. You gain a real understanding of the hard work, risks, and knowledge that go into every bean.

It infuses a deep respect and a sense of responsibility to capture the true essence of the cacao in our chocolate and, through it, tell the story of the land and the people who grow it.

You’re known for innovative flavour combinations – how do new ideas emerge?

Often from travel, sometimes from different tastings, people we meet, and occasionally from accidents. We explore ingredients the way chefs explore seasonal produce. A good flavour pairing should feel surprising but inevitable, like it always belonged in chocolate.

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What guides you when choosing flavours, aromas, and textures?

Our Gourmet chocolates are a creative playground where we challenge traditional notions of flavour. We step outside the usual and industry-standard combinations to craft something unique.

Every chocolate is carefully designed and paired with thoughtfully selected, high-quality ingredients: from simple and fresh to playful, exotic, or deep, sensual aromas.

Even when a combination might seem too unconventional or surprising there’s always a clear idea and a precise concept behind it. We play with the relationship between aromas, flavors, and textures to create a balanced and memorable experience.

You mentioned that every chocolate has its own terroir – what can we “read” from its flavour?

Just like any product derived from the land, cacao has its terroir – the unique combination of soil, climate, fermentation style, and even the philosophy of the farmer. Some origins are bright and fruity, others are deep and nutty, while some evoke floral or spicy notes.

When we select cacao beans for a new creation, we’re always seeking not just complexity of flavour, but also beans with personality – those in which you can truly sense the sense of place they come from.

(Photo: Private album)

It’s also very important for us that these beans come from sustainable sources and that we support fair trade. Such beans are quite different from those produced for mass-market chocolate.

Mass production tends to erase the personality of the cacao and doesn’t empower the farmers.

Beans are mixed, roasted at high temperatures to produce a uniform flavour, and this process often masks the flaws that naturally appear in large-scale production. As a result, the distinctive character of each cacao bean gets lost, leaving behind a bland, monotonous, yet familiar “chocolate” profile.

We do the opposite. The beans we choose are selected specifically for their personality and unique organoleptic qualities, which we preserve through careful fermentation and drying.

(Photo: Private album)

This approach allows us to highlight their individuality during further processing. Every batch begins with a tasting of raw beans and an exploration of the farmers, their methods, and how the cacao is handled – from fermentation to drying and transportation. It’s crucial to us that each step is done honestly and with care.

This process connects us to the place and people behind the cacao, giving us the chance to tell their story – through the chocolate we craft, and through the culture and spirit they embody.

Which of your chocolate creations are you especially proud of?

Our Cacao Puro line is something we’re particularly proud of. The idea behind these products came from seeking a balance between our perfectionism and a “zero waste” approach.

Cacao husks, which we remove to achieve a pure mass and refined flavour, we decided not to treat as waste but to give a new life. This led to a collaboration with Luka Žuljević from RUKE distillery, resulting in the Cacao Puro Spirit – a liqueur made from double maceration and distillation of cacao husks and beans from the Philippines.

(Photo: Private album)

Additionally, together with Nenad Lalić and Andrej Čapka from Zmajska Brewery, we created Ransiki Temptation – an imperial stout with 11% alcohol, enriched with cacao husks and beans from the Ransiki region in Indonesia.

We use this beer in our chocolates as well. It’s a rich, creamy beer with chocolate notes and hints of black tea – perfect for slow, mindful enjoyment, just like the chocolates that inspired it.

(Photo: Private album)

You run chocolate‑making workshops – what can participants learn, and who are they intended for?

Our workshops are more than just fun tasting sessions; they’re a journey into the history, geography, aromas, and flavours of chocolate. Participants learn how to recognise quality, read labels, and choose chocolates that suit their personal taste. We emphasise sensory education, actively tasting, comparing, and discovering subtle nuances in flavour and aroma.

The goal is for everyone to leave with not only new knowledge but also a deeper understanding of their own preferences. We create a relaxed, intimate environment in small groups, encouraging exploration and personal expression. Many participants leave inspired to make better choices or even start their own chocolate-related ventures.

Beyond that, we also offer specialised courses for professionals in hospitality – covering everything from sensory analysis and storytelling to product development and visual presentation. Whether it’s integrating chocolate into menus or creating signature products, our workshops help elevate their craft and inspire innovation.

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Do you export your chocolates, and to which markets? Which have been the most demanding and the most rewarding?

Yes – mostly within Europe, where the craft‑chocolate culture is strong, but we also export occasionally to Japan and USA.

The most demanding markets are those with many established bean‑to‑bar makers; competition is fierce. The most rewarding are those where we help build a new appreciation for origin chocolate, including among visitors discovering Croatian craft for the first time.

What are your plans for the future – new products, markets, or perhaps completely new projects?

We want to deepen our exploration of cacao: more origin‑driven products, limited harvest editions, and collaborations with Croatian artisans, like winemakers, brewers, distillers, chefs.

Education will remain a big part of our mission. We want Croatia to be recognised internationally as a small but serious chocolate destination.

(Photo: Private album)

How much has consumers’ perception of chocolate changed in the last 10 years?

It has changed a lot. People now ask about origin, not only cacao percentage. They’re more open to complexity and less afraid of good bitterness. Chocolate has moved from “sweet treat” to “gastronomic experience” – and that shift is only beginning.