Rijeka on a plate: How Kvarner’s flavours are winning over Europe

Restaurant Kamov (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

By Paulina Mlinarić

When you arrive in Rijeka, it is the aromas that greet you first.

The scent of maneštra and jota, freshly grilled fish and meat, fritule and kroštule, lamb and seasonal vegetables drifts through the air. Here, squid sets new standards of comparison, and even a seemingly simple pizza carries an unexpected, almost signature touch.

In this northern Adriatic city, food is not merely served, it is told as a story.

In 2026, Kvarner will take centre stage as the holder of the prestigious title of European Region of Gastronomy – the only Croatian region to receive the recognition.

The award was granted by the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism (IGCAT), confirming years of systematic investment in culinary excellence, chef and winemaker education, and the development of regional quality labels.

The project, titled “Kvarner – European Region of Gastronomy”, will culminate in 2026 with a series of high-profile events showcasing the region’s culinary diversity, innovation and deep-rooted traditions.

Kvarner’s cuisine rests on three distinct identities, coastal, island and Gorski Kotar mountain. The region’s motto, “Diversity is Beautiful”, is more than a slogan; it is a gastronomic reality.

From Adriatic fish and polenta to Mediterranean vegetables and indigenous products such as Grobnik cheese, Kvarner’s cuisine engages all five senses, and lingers long in the memory.

Rijeka: 42 Gastronomic Stories, One City

As the region’s urban heart, Rijeka has steadily built its reputation as a serious gastronomic destination. Its restaurants have been recognised by respected international guides including Michelin Guide and Gault&Millau.

A key initiative led by the Tourist Board of the City of Rijeka is the “Rijeka’s Gastronomic Ports” project, bringing together 42 restaurants. Each offers an author-driven interpretation of Kvarner cuisine, creating a mosaic of quality and creativity across the city.

“Gastronomy is now an indispensable part of the tourism experience and one of the main reasons visitors choose a destination,” says Petar Škarpa, Director of the Tourist Board of the City of Rijeka.

Conca d’Oro (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

“In recent years, Rijeka has made significant strides in developing its culinary offer. Projects such as Rijeka’s Gastronomic Ports show how local heritage can be transformed into an authentic and modern tourism product. The European Region of Gastronomy title is further confirmation of our region’s quality and potential.”

Literature Meets the Plate

At the heart of the historic Grand Hotel Bonavia lies the à la carte Restaurant Kamov, inspired by the avant-garde writer Janko Polić Kamov. The restaurant successfully merges Rijeka’s literary heritage with a contemporary culinary expression.

Head chef Ante Štorić leads the kitchen with a style that is clean, thoughtful and rooted firmly in local ingredients. The menu interprets Kvarner cuisine through seasonality and balance, from octopus carpaccio and cuttlefish with capers and Parmesan, to prawn ravioli in creamy sauces and gratinated sea bream fillet with basil and seasonal vegetables.

Restaurant Kamov (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Desserts, including the distinctive Rijeka cream slice, complete an experience that goes beyond the hotel setting, positioning Kamov among the city’s key gastronomic addresses.

Restaurant Kamov (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

From Korzo to the Harbour

Rijeka’s culinary life does not reside solely in fine dining. Around the bustling Korzo promenade, bistros and trattorias celebrate the culture of marenda, the cherished mid-morning meal.

Conca d’Oro, tucked away in a passage, pairs exceptional pizza with seafood specialities, from risottos to monkfish with fresh vegetables.

Conca d’Oro (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Bistro Štorija on Riva 6 has earned a following for its Rijeka breakfast, vegan dishes, poke bowls and creative burgers.

Bistro Štorija (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Near the port, Restaurant Mornar is synonymous with freshness. Its menu adapts daily to the catch, and grilled fish and scampi explain why both locals and international guests return time and again.

If staff recommend something not listed on the menu but caught that morning, it is wise to accept without hesitation.

Bistro Mornar (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Bistro Mornar (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Bistro Mornar (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Opposite the iconic Exportdrvo building, Konoba Na Kantunu has been serving carefully prepared marenda classics for 26 years.

Fried squid rings with Swiss chard, shark fillet with parsnip purée and deeply flavoured black risotto are offered at a single daily price.

Konoba Na Kantunu (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Owner Željka’s philosophy remains unchanged: to make top-quality gastronomy accessible to all. Meals end with a strudel baked in front of guests, a dessert that alone justifies a return visit.

Konoba Na Kantunu (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Konoba Na Kantunu (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

Desserts with a Story

In Rijeka, desserts carry identity. The local cream slice is more than a sweet treat; it is a symbol of place. Tiramisu finds new interpretations, while the indulgent Rigojanči cake tells the legend of a Roma violinist and a love story more than a century old. It is not a dessert eaten in passing, but one savoured with intention.

Bistro Mornar (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

A City Worth Returning To

Rijeka is more than a port, more than its industrial heritage, more than its urban energy.

Konoba Na Kantunu (Photo: Nikola Zoko)

It is a city where gastronomy is lived daily, in conversation with a waiter, in a local’s recommendation, in a dessert with a story. As Kvarner prepares to shine as European Region of Gastronomy 2026, Rijeka confirms its status as a destination travellers first visit out of curiosity, and return to for the taste.